The stroll south of Arno River from Piazzale Michelangelo down to Ponte Vecchio may no longer be a secret exclusive to those who frequent Florence, but let’s do this route in reverse with an extra stop at a higher vantage point. It is a small hike, but if you time it right, the trip will be worth the uphill effort.
We recommend starting this walk around 5:30pm, after you have crossed Ponte Vecchio and checked out Oltrano and its sights (such as Pitti Palance); the reason for this starting time will become apparent later. At the southern end of Ponte Vecchio, we will start at the corner of Via de’ Guicciardini and Via de’ Bardi (facing east toward Via de’ Bardi).
You probably heard the story about the Medici family, not wanting to mix with commoners, built a corridor above Ponte Vecchio connecting Pitti Palace to Uffizi. Part of this Vasari Corridor, named after its architect, is right above you in the Google Street View above.
Head east on Via de’ Bardi. Until you reach the river, this street is a retail gauntlet. If you get distracted and start shopping (or even just window shopping), you may miss the highlight of this walk, so put your blinders on and keep marching. When you reach Arno River, veer right (away from the river) and stay on Via de’ Bardi.
The street will start slanting uphill. Soon you will notice that retail stores have been replaced by charming stone buildings with large wooden doors. Some of these spaces are occupied by artisanal craft workshops and stores. If they are not closed by now (and if you really can’t stay away from them), check them out quickly and don’t linger too long. Keep heading uphill and Via de’ Bardi will turn into Via di San Niccolò; if you don’t make any stop along the way, you should reach the corner of Via San Miniato in about 10 minutes.
Turn right on Via San Miniato. As you can see from Street View above, you will run into an old city wall just a block up. Go through the arch gate and the street will turn into Via del Monte alle Croci. Continue on for a couple short blocks, and you will approach this intersection.
Cross the street and enter the little doorway in the stone wall. Head up the steps and you will find yourself in Giardino delle Rose (Rose Garden). Meander uphill; if you are here in late Spring and Summer, this place will live up to its name. Besides beautiful flowers, playful sculptures also dot this garden. You might get mesmerized by the city wall ascending a steep hill across the valley, but locals are totally oblivious as they are just enjoying a sunny Florentine afternoon.
As you continue to stroll uphill, your goal is to exit the garden by climbing up next to a cafe/bar (see its Google Maps location here). As you reach to the top of the stairs, you will catch a glimpse of Piazzale Michelangelo to your left. We will go there later, but for now, turn right and continue on Viale Galileo for a couple hundred yards. Soon two symmetrical staircases flanking three large niches in a stone wall will appear on your left. Those stairs will lead you to the entrance of San Miniato al Monte.
One more climb will bring you to the church entrance. Look back to face Florence, and ponder spending an eternity with this view.
Head inside this church. Climb up the stairs and examine the large mosaic of Christ and ornately decorated chapels. If you want to read more about the history and architecture of this church, Wikipedia has a well written entry (see here).
Descend into the crypt. If you have timed this trip right, you will see monks and priests getting ready for vesper service. Seats at crypt level are reserved for worshipers; unless you are there to partake at a serious mass, please be respectful and take a seat on the ground level.
At 6:30pm, the vesper service starts and it is entirely conducted in Latin Gregorian Chant. Though you may not understand a word, the tranquil hymn in such a serene setting is simply sublime. Below is a short video of this mass (and in all honesty, the video does not it justice).
After the service is over, stroll downhill to Piazzale Michelangelo. Even at early evening, this plaza would still bustle with tourists catching a panoramic view of Florence (there are quite a few great Google Photosphere photos worth checking out).
Even if you are not religious, that meditative melodic mass may make you a bit calmer and less irritated by the hordes of tourists taking selfies and vendors hawking tchotchkes. You may feel so peaceful that craving for a drink might kick in. Go back to that bar you passed earlier (as you exited the Rose Garden) and grab a table; prices aren’t low and service is so-so, but the view is definitely worth the price of admission.
When your thirst has been crunched and you have sufficiently taken in the grand view of Florence, stroll back down to Arno River, or take bus # 12 or # 13 from this plaza to Santa Maria Novella Train Station.
NOTE: If you visit the official website of San Miniato al Monte (see here), it provides conflicting time on its daily vesper service. The “Orari della liturgia delle ore” (hourly worship schedule) page shows vesper service at 6:30pm; however the “Orari della Sante Messe” (holy mass schedule) page mentions the Gregorian Chant service occurring at 5:30pm. We followed Rick Steves’ advice and attended the mass at 6:30pm, but it probably won’t hurt to confirm with a TI station in Florence before hiking up.
GETTING HERE: From downtown Florence, walk across Ponte Vecchio to Oltrano area. If you want to do this tour in reverse, it may be easier to take bus # 12 or # 13 to Piazzale Michelangelo. Both buses departs Santa Maria Novella station at the bus stop in front of the bikes in Street View below.
Each bus takes a different route to get to Piazzale Michelangelo but both routes take approximately 30 minutes (longer if there is traffic). In case you want to save a little time hiking uphill, bus # 12 stops at San Miniato al Monte one stop before reaching Piazzale Michelangelo.